In A Fashion First, Haute Couture Collections Are Presented Online

Over these past few months, fashion has strained to see what would become of the industry in the age of COVID-19. At a time when many people are barely leaving their houses — not to mention not dressing up — can fashion maintain its relevance? This week, couture designers made the argument that the answer is yes.

Fédération de la Haute Couture de la Mode coordinates Paris Fashion Week, upholds haute couture standards and oversees the shows — and it allowed this season's couture collections to be presented digitally, rather than in their traditional in-person, in-Paris setting. The virtual venue allowed Arab, European and Asian designers to creatively collaborate with filmmakers and digital artists to unveil their collections or offer a sneak peek into collections that will come later this year. But shows don't come cheaply; they can range anywhere between $200,000 to over $1 million. The decision of whether and how to show was weighed carefully by designers.

Lebanese couturier Georges Hobeika was the only Arab designer to show a full collection, though fellow Lebanese designers, Maison Rabih Kayrouz and Elie Saab, showed previews. Other couture designers like Tony Ward had to, as he put it, "stitch priorities" and choose between keeping his staff or holding a runway show. Ward prioritized his staff. Though unable to show a collection this week, he remains hopeful. "We are trying to keep moving at our own pace and drift from the official calendars, all while getting prepared for what's coming next," he says. For British couture duo Ralph & Russo, who have dressed the Duchess of Sussex, Bella Hadid and Angelina Jolie, going digital was an exhilarating experience. The pandemic caused the brand to reassess and rethink their business strategy. But it was the digital realm, particularly AI, that fascinated Tamara Ralph, co-founder and creative director of the brand. Like many industries, haute couture had to adapt quickly to maintain relevance when life went online. Come September, Paris plans to be back on the runway in real life. Women's ready-to-wear week is scheduled to begin Sept. 28.